Category Archives: Health Care


Does your pet fear vet visits? Mine did, until one simple technique helped him overcome his fear of vet visits and his needle phobia.

Buddy – our powerful, brave, 62-pound Blue Heeler-mix dog – was a terrified wimp at the site of needles in the vet’s office. As soon as his leg was held for a blood draw, he’d start to get anxious. When he saw the needle, he would whimper, cry, and do a big alligator roll to get away.

Buddy Liked to Relax and Be Calm. Ear TTouch Helped.

One day my husband took Buddy for his annual exam. As usual, Buddy cried and tried to roll away. The more anyone tried to “help,” and the harder anyone tried to get the needle in his leg, the worse things got.

Eventually the veterinarian asked my husband to go outside and “let them do what they needed.” I don’t know, and don’t want to know, just what happened. They got the blood.

When he got home, Buddy let me know just how upset and traumatized he felt. Ear Slides – a key part of the Tellington TTouch® Method – and a soothing voice helped him calm down and recover.

That was when I said, “Never again. We can make this a better experience.” As a TTouch® practitioner in training, I knew it was possible.

A couple of months later, Buddy needed another blood draw, so I took him to the vet. When the technician and veterinarian came in, they were as tense and nervous as Buddy.

I politely stated that I’d learned a cool technique that would help make things easier for everyone and asked if they’d be willing to try. The tech gave a sigh of relief and said she’d try anything. The vet was more skeptical, but willing.

When Buddy was on the table, before he was restrained, I gave him a few gentle strokes. Then I started doing Tellington TTouch® Ear Slides. I also talked to him with a soothing voice, so that he’d keep his attention more focused on me. The tech was able to keep him in place with almost no restraint.

His leg was prepped, and the vet drew the blood. Buddy barely even noticed the needle. The entire process was quickly over – before Buddy realized what had happened.

To say that the veterinarian was impressed and the technician was surprised would be a big understatement. They stated that they would always do his draws and anything else involving a needle that way. Then the tech asked to learn what I had done, so she could use it with other pets.

Buddy’s behavior change left a lasting impression on the staff at that clinic, and it helped staff at all other clinics he went to throughout his life. Ear Slides helped Buddy every time a needle was used. This easy TTouch helped him be calm and relaxed. It also helped technicians, veterinarians – and me – be calm and relaxed.

They helped so much that he overcame his fear and didn’t need them later in his life. His last vet recently told me she wasn’t aware that he ever had needle phobia or feared vet visits.

I’ve successfully used TTouch® Ear Slides with lots of shelter animals during exams, injections and blood draws. My clients use Ear Slides to help their pets be calm at the vet and in all kinds of situations.

Learn how to do TTouch® Ear Slides with your pet:


By working the ear, we can influence the entire body, the mind, emotions, and behavior of our pets. That’s why Ear Slides (also known as Eas Ear TTouch) are one of the most useful of all Tellington TTouch® Method TTouches.

Just some of the many ways they can help your pet are to: relax and be calm; overcome fear of storms and loud noises; improve digestion, immune system, circulation, and overall wellness; and improve performance.  Read more benefits of Ear Slides, and the unusual way by which I first learned to do them!

Ear TTouches on Cat and Dog

With one exception, Ear Slides are done the same way for dogs and cats.  The pressure is light for both, but even lighter for cats.  For cats, think of stroking a rose petal.  The directions below talk about dogs, but the technique is for both.


  1. Place your dog and yourself in a comfortable position.
  2. Take a deep breath, exhale, and relax yourself.  Remember that your dog is likely to reflect your breathing pattern and your tension.
  3. Support dog’s head with one hand.
  4. Use your other hand to work your dog’s ear.
  5. Place your hand at the base of your dog’s ear, so that the thumb is on the outside, and one or more of your fingers are on the inner part of your dog’s ear.  Always include the index finger, and use more fingers if your dog’s ear is larger.
  6. Alternatively, if your wrist is in an awkward position, you can place the thumb inside the ear and the fingers on the outside.
  7. Begin working the ear:
    1. Use very light pressure.
    2. Start at the base of the ear.
    3. Rotate the base in a circular motion one time, then,
    4. Slide your finger(s) and thumb along the ear, following the natural direction of the ear – up, down, or out.
      For very large ears that hang down, support the ear as you slide.
    5. Be sure to include the tip of the ear.
    6. Finish slightly beyond the ear tip.
    7. The sliding motion should take 2-3 seconds to complete, with the lesser time needed for smaller ears and more for larger ears.
      Dogs with exceptionally large ears, like basset hounds, may take 4 seconds.
  8. Repeat this motion until the entire ear is covered.
  9. Switch hands and do the same thing on the other ear.
  10. You only need to do this once on each ear, covering the entire ear.  If you wish, you may do a few more, but no more than 4 slides on each ear, because they can increase body temperature and blood pressure.
  11. Do the Ear Slide as often as you wish and your dog will allow.
  • An alternative way to do the Ear Slide is to gently fold the ear on itself, with the thumb on one side and the fingers on the other.  The motion, pressure, and time it takes to do the TTouch are the same as above.

Ear TTouch Close Up, Ear Folded

  • Activating” Ear Slides stimulate pets and increase alertness.
  • They are used:
    • in cases of emergency to reduce shock (There are many cases of Ear Slides saving a pet’s life after a trauma);
    • to restore consciousness faster after sedation or anesthesia; and
    • to enhance performance.
  • They use the same position and motion as above.  However, they are done:
    • with a little more pressure,
    • a little faster, and
    • with extra attention being paid to the ear tips.
  • They can be done frequently or continuously, depending on the severity of the situation.
  • Because of the very strong effect on blood pressure and body temperature, they should be stopped as soon as your pet has stabilized, regains full consciousness, or seems ready to perform.

Watch this Video Demonstration of Ear Slides, presented by fellow practitioner Elaine Garley.

Buddy, our Australian Cattle Dog mix, turned into a terrified wimp when he needed his blood drawn.  Read how Ear Slides helped Buddy overcome his needle phobia and made veterinarian visits pleasant and easy.

Call or email me to learn how, when, and where to do Ear Slides to best help you and your pet.




Lessons Learned from a Health Scare

Penny A. Watkins-Zdrojewski

© March 2014

Winter’s harsh grip is easing up some in our slice of the Midwest.  Even though cold, snow and ice keep coming back, we’ve been treated to hints that spring will eventually arrive.  Along with promise has also come the harshness of transition.  Bad winds and rains on top of feet of melting snow brought flash flooding and threats of tornadoes.  This year’s transition seems to be harsher than normal for the ailing, seniors, and our pets.  In the past 3 weeks, several people I know have had challenges and heartbreaks with their pets, facing serious health crises, receiving a terminal prognosis, or watching a beloved friend cross the rainbow bridge.

We had our own scare two weeks ago, when our dog Buddy developed a life-threatening emergency.  In short, he exhibited extreme distress in the middle of the night Sunday, with a distended abdomen, labored breathing, and indications of pain. A trip to the emergency room showed a mass that was bleeding into the abdominal cavity.  He had surgery Tuesday morning to remove the mass and a large part of his liver, and was able to come home late Wednesday.  Thankfully, biopsy results showed that everything is benign.  Buddy is making a full and rapid recovery, and we plan to have him with us for several more years.

Through all of the ups and downs, I’ve learned new lessons and been reminded of others.  In the hope that our experience with Buddy may help you, your pet, or that of someone you know, here are 12 Lessons I Learned from Buddy’s Health Scare.

Lesson 1:  Know What’s Normal
Know what is normal so you can tell when something isn’t.  Check each of the following details when your pet is fine, and keep a record on hand.

  • Energy level
  • Temperament
  • Tolerance for pain
  • Body temperature, heart rate, lung sounds (or normal breathing pattern) and blood pressure
  • Body shape and any growths on or just below the skin
  • Normal pliability (feel) of the body, especially the abdomen

Lesson 2: Be Prepared
Be prepared.  Have tools and supplies readily available so that you can check your pet if something seems wrong.  Know how to use the tools you have on hand.  I highly recommend taking a class in Pet First aid.  If you cannot, most care providers will be willing to teach you how to use basic tools.  At a minimum,  you should keep these in your emergency kit:

  • Thermometer, probe covers, and lubricant
  • Stethoscope
  • Disposable gloves and/or disinfecting soap
  • Harness and Leash, so that you can encourage your pet to remain still while you thoroughly check him
  • Blanket, which can be used to keep a pet warm if they are going into shock and can be used as to carry them if needed
  • Contact information for your veterinarian and local emergency clinic

Lesson 3: Time
Time can be critical.  If you think there may be a real problem, act.  Call your veterinarian or emergency clinic, go in, follow up.  It’s better to spend money and lose a little time than to wait and risk losing your pet.

Lesson 4:  Be an Advocate
Be your pet’s advocate.  He (or she) is unable to speak for himself, so you will have to speak for him.  Your care provider knows more about your pet’s health condition.  You know more about your pet — his normal activity and habits and how those may (or may not) be restricted, what he will and won’t handle well, his home environment, his likes, his overall quality of life.  Take a little time to think about what your pet would choose, and factor that into all of your decisions.

Lesson 5:  Learn About It
Learn everything you can about what is going on.  Ask a lot of questions.  Listen carefully to the answers, write things down, and ask follow-up questions.

Lesson 6:  Explore Options
Explore options.  Consider all factors and choose what is best for you, your family, and your pet.

  • If a major procedure, such as surgery, is recommended, what are the risks, likely benefits, and possible outcomes?
  • Are there alternatives?  If so, are they reasonable, and you and your pet likely to be happy with the outcome?
  • Is there a better provider or facility for the procedure?  Price is a consideration, but also consider experience, expertise, and follow-up care.

Lesson 7:  Good Health Starts Early
Support your pet’s health from an early age so that he can maintain optimal health for years.

  • Start with regular veterinarian exams and continue with wellness exams at least once a year.  If possible, choose a holistic veterinarian.
  • Provide a high-quality, species-appropriate diet.
  • Use supplements, including Probiotics, antioxidants, joint support, vitamins and minerals as needed with each life stage.
  • If you have questions about diet or supplements, contact an animal nutrition counselor.
  • Provide ample clean water, preferably filtered.
  • Use only steel or ceramic bowls; plastic and aluminum carry health risks.  Clean bowls daily or after each meal.
  • Learn about the merits and dangers of vaccinations and choose wisely.
  • Be aware of any chemicals you use, either directly on your pet or around the house.  These include items you may automatically think of as harmful, but also everyday cleaners, disinfectants, air fresheners, and fabric softeners.

Lesson 8:  Can I Visit?
Ask to visit your pet while he is hospitalized and understand if the answer is no. There are times when a visit is helpful for you and your pet.  We were even able to take our other dog, Murphy, to visit Buddy before surgery.  At other times, your pet needs to rest and recuperate.  The added excitement of seeing you may be too much.  The doctors and support staff need to be able to give your pet the medical support he requires.

Lesson 9:  Alternative and Integrative Practices
If you know an alternative practitioner or are one, draw on that skill and expertise from the onset of symptoms through recovery.  Do not rely solely on alternative practices, because they are not a substitute for veterinary care when it is needed.

  • Because I am an animal wellness counselor, I was able to help Buddy from the time that we first noticed symptoms to the time he was taken for tests.  One very valuable technique was Tellington TTouch® Ear Slides, which helped with his anxiety and pain, and helped regulate his blood pressure.  They may have also helped to save his life.  In the emergency department, his blood pressure was recorded at 90 systolic when it should have been around 120.  Ear Slides are known to help blood pressure, especially during emergencies.
  • I am also helping to speed Buddy’s recovery.  Along with several TTouch® techniques, I am also using an appropriate combination of homeopathic remedies, Bach Flower Essences, and energy work.
  • I am drawing on the expertise of fellow alternative practitioners, who can be more objective with my pet than I can.  One of my mentors and dear friends is a Healing Touch for Animals(r) practitioner.  She had a distance session with Buddy, after which he had a great deal more energy, improved comfort level, and improvement in many post-operative symptoms.
  • Buddy is getting recommended follow-up visits with our holistic veterinarian.  At the first visit, she was able to run blood tests to determine that everything was rapidly returning to normal.  Only a veterinarian would be able perform tests to confirm that he was recovering from anemia.  Buddy also received a prescription medication for liver support, which only a veterinarian could provide.

Lesson 10: Pet Insurance
Pet Insurance is worth it.  While it may seem like an added financial burden when your pet is young, a single emergency will make you glad to have it.  We did not insure either of our pets.  As they have aged, expenses have mounted.  Buddy’s crisis this week will cost several thousand dollars.  While we are quite willing to find a way to pay this to have our companion with us, insurance would have greatly eased the financial stress.

Lesson 11:  Other Pets in the Household
If you have more than one pet, remember to give the others the care and understanding they need.  It’s likely that they are confused, concerned for their companion, and may be afraid or grieving.  Talk with them as if they can understand what you are saying and explain what is happening; it will likely help them more than you expect.

Lesson 12:  Support is Important
Have a support system in place.  You need someone who can listen to and support what you are going through.  It’s best to have one or more supporters who are not part of your household.  The rest of your family is dealing with their own feelings and can’t be objective.  If you don’t already have a support system, find at least one person as quickly as you can.  Ask your veterinarian if there are support groups or help lines.


I’m very grateful to all of the wonderful people who taught me various skills over the years, as well as my dogs, who are great teachers.  Without some knowledge and preparedness, it’s very possible that Buddy would no longer be with us.  I hope that you never need to use these tips, and hope that they help you if you should.

Toenail Trimming: How to Make It Easier

Penny A. Watkins-Zdrojewski
December 2013

Many dogs, cats and critters don’t like to have their nails trimmed and display behaviors that make it nearly impossible to try.  Working harder to get it done only increases your pet’s fear and your frustration, producing even worse results the next time.  If you live with one of these animals, you know how frustrating and stressful it can be.

Are long toenails a major health hazard?  Usually not, but they can be for some animals.  Nails that are excessively long can affect an animal’s gait and balance, permanently deform the foot, or curve too far and puncture the paw pads.  Long nails are also prone to snagging, breaking and tearing.

Check with your vet to determine your pet’s optimum nail health.  Even if your pet’s health isn’t an issue, nails trimmed to the appropriate length are better for the overall wellness and comfort of a pet animal, as well as the comfort his human guardian.

What do you need to look for when trimming nails, and how can you make it easier?  Here is some information to help you get started on the right foot – or paw.  Read on to learn about toenail anatomy, types of equipment and selecting the right tool, how to correctly trim with clippers or a rotary tool, the importance of being comfortable, the best ways to introduce tools and help your pet accept them, and damaged nails.


Dog, cat, and mammalian critter toenails consist of: a nail bed, or germinal tissue; a nail shell; the “quick”; and, in the case of cats, a sheath.

The nail bed, or germinal tissue, is at the base of the nail, and appears to be part of the paw.  The germinal tissue is the beginning of nail growth and affects the health of the nail.  Toenails grow out from the base, downward in a curved arc.

The nail shell is hard and curved.  It may be black, white, or translucent.  Black nails make it more difficult to see the quick, and may be tougher to cut or file.

Immediately inside the shell is a darker, somewhat softer tissue, which protects the quick.

The quick is the soft cuticle in the center, which consists of nerve and blood vessels.  If the quick is cut, it will bleed and cause your pet pain.  As nails grow, the quick grows with them.  The quick should normally be near the “hook,” or most curved part of the nail.  If nails are not cut or filed on a regular basis, the quick will grow toward the nail tip, making it more likely for it to be damaged during trimming or if the nail is injured.

Dogs have fixed toenails and cats have nails that can be retracted into the nail sheath at the base of the nail.


Pet toenail trimmers come in a wide variety of styles, and each has its own use.

  • Guillotine style clippers are mostly used for dogs.  They require that the nail be inserted through a cutting hole and do not have a trim guard to prevent over-clipping.  They may be less effective on larger dogs or dogs with very tough nails.
  • Pliers (or “Miller’s forge) style clippers are commonly used by professionals and experienced pet guardians for most dogs.  They come in a of range sizes, with and without a guard to prevent over-clipping.
  • Scissor style clippers are the type most often used for cats.  They can also be used for puppies and small dogs.
  • A power rotary tool can quickly grind and file nails as an alternative to clipping.
  • Human Nail Clippers can be useful for small kittens and puppies, rabbits, guinea pigs, hamsters, and other small critters.
  • A metal hand file is sometimes used to smooth tips after cutting the nail, and can be helpful with some damaged nails.

When trimming nails, it’s good to have a clotting agent in case of bleeding. Styptic powder is common.   Kwik Stop is styptic powder with Benzocaine, an numbing agent.  In an emergency, plain flour can work.


When selecting a nail trimming tool, your first consideration should be whether it is an appropriate size for your pet.  Tools that are too small will not cut well.  If they are too big, they may break the nail or make it difficult to see and avoid cutting the quick.   As pets grow, you may need to switch tools.

Any tool needs to fit well in your hand.  It should also be comfortable and be easy to use.

If you choose clippers, it’s important they be sharp enough to cleanly cut your pet’s nails.  Your pet’s tolerance for noise and vibration may be a factor in choosing a rotary tool.  However it is generally possible to help them become comfortable with any tool, as explained below in “How to Introduce and Desensitize to Tools.”


Identify the Quick

If your pet has light or translucent nails, the quick should look pink, and should be easy to see.  With dark or black nails, it is not possible to see the quick, but the anatomy is the same. If you look at the anatomy of the underside of the nail you will see a triangle. The end of this triangle is generally where the quick begins.   When in doubt, cut or file just a little nail; you can always remove more in a few days or a week.

Trimming with Clippers

Ideally, you should make the cut 2-3 millimeters from the nail quick.  With dark nails, where you can’t see the quick, trim a little at a time and check the nail.  If the tip has a waxy look you are close to the quick.  If it looks dry, you can remove a bit more.  You can also look for a pale, third, inner circle, or a dark spot in the middle of the clipped nail. Stop clipping here.

If you go too far, the nail will bleed and cause pain.  While you may feel like panicking, don’t worry.  Apply styptic powder, Kwik Stop, or, in an emergency, plain flour.   The nail will heal quickly.  A common misperception is that a pet who has had their quick cut will never allow their nails to be trimmed again.  While they may have some fear the next time, you can help to make them comfortable again, following the steps outlined in the section below on introducing and desensitizing to tools.

Remember to clip the dew claws located on the inside the legs.  They can curl in and cause pain, and can tear easily.

Filing with a Rotary Tool

Guidelines for length, identifying the quick, and what to do if you trim too far are the same as for using clippers.  However, the actual process for filing with a rotary tool is a little different from using clippers.  The process and additional precautions are detailed in the next section.  You may also need to take longer to introduce the tool, due to the noise and vibration.


If your pet won’t tolerate having her nails trimmed with clippers, you might try switching to an electric rotary tool, such as the Oster Gentle Paws Nail Trimmer or a Dremel® tool from the hardware store.  For animals whose nails tend to be brittle or fragile and break frequently, I highly recommend that you file the nails instead of clipping.  Getting your pet used to the electric trimmer may be a long process, and you may have to put your efforts into it for a while.  But the results, which are positive for most animals, will pay off your patience and effort.

Still, the electric trimmers offer a set of challenges as well.  What can you do to help your animal learn to accept having its nails filed?

Select the Right Rotary Tool:

Do a little research and buy a high-quality (not necessarily high-priced) electric trimmer.  You can find lots of specialized models in pet stores.  Similar products sell for much less in hardware stores.  The main thing to consider is how comfortable the tool will be for you and for your pet.  Factors include: whether the tool is corded or cordless; how it fits in your hand; the motor noise; and the vibration.

Follow the Guidelines for Comfort and for How to Introduce and Desensitize to Tools below

How to File with a Rotary Tool:

Start by removing the curved tip until the nail is blunt.  Next, file straight across until you are near the quick or at an appropriate length.  Finally, round off any sharp corners to prevent snagging and scratching.  Filing builds heat, so only trim for a few seconds on any nail.  You don’t need to do each one start to finish, and can work on each toe several times during any given session.


It is important for both you and your pet to be comfortable.  If you are uncomfortable, it will affect your breathing and your stress level, and frustration.   If your pet’s foot or leg is being held at an odd angle, it will make her uncomfortable, she will want to move away, and you will both become frustrated and stressed.  Some pets are more comfortable on a table or similar surface; others do better sitting next to you or in your lap.

Exhale frequently while trimming; this will help regulate your breathing and reduce your stress.

When possible, partner with someone.  One of you can help calm and relax your pet while the other trims the nails.  You and your pet will be more relaxed, and will make it easier for her to accept the process.  Treats can help, but I highly recommend TTouch Ear Slides and other pleasurable types of touch.


The principal here is simple: turn something potentially scary and painful into something fun and pleasurable.

This process “chunks it down” – instead of trying to cut or file nails right away, each part of the introduction to the tool, including its effects, is a separate step.  It’s very important to take things slowly, moving at your pet’s pace.  At any point, if your pet starts to become distressed, back up one or two steps until he is completely comfortable again.

Using either clippers or a rotary file, let your pet meet and become comfortable with the trimming tool before you use it:

  1. Let your pet meet the tool.  Allow him to sniff and explore it.  If necessary, use treats to make it more interesting.  Sometimes putting a little wet food or peanut butter on the tool will help him associate it with something good.
  2. Gently rub or massage your pet’s legs and feet with the tool.  If he doesn’t easily tolerate having his legs touched, start with rubbing his back and shoulders, gradually moving to the legs, then returning to the shoulders.
  3. Lightly tap his toes with the tool.
  4. Lightly tap his toe nails with the tool.
  5. At this point, if using clippers, follow the instructions in #6; if using a rotary file, follow the instructions in #7.
  6. When Using Clippers:
    1. Put the clipper around your pet’s nails, one at a time, and remove quickly without cutting any nails.  Repeat this for several days.
    2. When comfortable, cut one nail, and then massage the foot with the clippers.  You may be able to cut more than one nail, but be aware of your pet’s comfort level.  Repeat for a few days.
    3. Continue in this fashion, slowly building up the number of toes that can be cut and the length of time the clippers can be in contact with the toe, while decreasing how frequently you have to stop cutting and go back to massages and rubs with the tool.
  7. When using a Dremel® or other rotary file:
    1. Help your pet become comfortable with the rotary tool with the motor turned off.  Start with an introduction, then massage legs, and feet and progress to tapping toes, all with the motor off.
    2. After your pet becomes comfortable with the tool while the motor is off, you will need to repeat the process with the motor turned on.  She needs to be comfortable with the sound and vibration before filing any nails.  First remove all attachments from the tool, so that your pet can’t touch any filing surfaces with his nose.  Turn the motor on and repeat the steps:  introducing, massaging, and then tapping toes with the body of the tool.
    3. Add the file attachment.  Do some massage and toe-taps with the body of the tool.  File just one toe for only 1-3 seconds, then switch back to massaging with the body of the tool.
    4. Continue in this fashion, slowly building up the number of toes that can be filed and length of time the grinder can be in contact with a toe, while decreasing how frequently you have to stop filing and go back to massaging with the body of the tool.

Regardless of what type of tool you use, you will accomplish a lot more, and you and your pet will be happier, if you have patience, take deep, frequent breaths, are consistent, and back up to easier steps at the first sign of stress.  It’s is better to only file a few nails, or just one, in a single session, than to make your pet (or yourself) upset, or to break the trust you’ve built.


The best way to prevent damaged nails is to keep them trimmed or filed to a proper length.  They are less likely to get caught in things and tear.  Still, some pets have nails that are naturally prone to splitting, breaking and tearing, even when well-trimmed.  Here is some information on common nail problems and what to do if your pet’s toenail becomes damaged.

Splitting and Breaking

Healthy toenails can split or break under ordinary circumstances, however, nails that frequently split or break may indicate a health or dietary issue.  Brittle nails that are accompanied by nail deformities may be indicative of medical issues.  If your pet’s nails appear abnormal or split and break frequently, take her to the veterinarian.  Brittle nails, left untreated, can lead to tearing injuries.  Dietary changes may also improve nail health.  Consult a qualified nutritional counselor for advice.


The most common cause of a torn nail is it getting caught on something.   Some pets have brittle nails that are more prone to tearing.  Because of the way toenails are attached, dewclaws are the most prone to being torn away from the body.  In any case, if a nail is torn, it will likely be sensitive.  Here is what to do if your pet’s nail tears:

  1. Stop the bleeding with styptic powder, Kwik Stop, or plain flour.  Determine if the injury requires the attention of a veterinarian.
  2. Keep the nail clean. Watch carefully for signs of infection, including swelling, sensitivity, and redness.
  3. If needed, wrap your pet’s paw with clean gauze.  You may be able to secure this with self-sticking wound wrap, or cover the dressing with a snug (not tight) toy or infant’s sock.
  4. To help prevent excessive licking, apply diluted tea tree oil to the nail before wrapping.  In addition to having an off-putting scent, the oil also has antiseptic properties.

Nail biting

Pets with allergies may bite their nails.  Allergens can irritate the paws and nails, and licking or chewing helps them relive the itchiness.  Controlling your pet’s allergies is the best way to prevent this.  Often, a change in diet can help reduce allergy symptoms by supporting the immune system.  Consult a qualified nutrition counselor for advice.

Some pets develop a habit of biting their nails for other reasons, and you may need the advice of a pet wellness counselor or behaviorist.


If a nail is sufficiently injured and the wound is exposed, it may become infected.  Look at the area around the base of the nail for signs of infection which include redness, swelling, tenderness, and seeping.  If there is infection, you will need to take your pet to the vet, who will prescribe an antibiotic.  Removing the toenail is rarely enough, particularly for dogs.  The bone in a dog’s toe extends out to the quick, reaching the blood supply.

Your veterinarian will give you instructions on how to manage your pet when you return home, and may recommend an e-collar to prevent chewing and biting at bandages and the injured nail.  You may also be able to add some of the management techniques listed above.


In summary, there are a few steps to making toenail trimming easier.  Start with selecting the right tool, and then properly introduce and desensitize your pet to the tools you choose.  Understand the process of trimming, including identifying the quick and knowing where to cut.  Most importantly, be comfortable – take deep breaths, have patience, and back up at the first sign of stress.  With a little time and patience, you and your pet can turn nail trimming into a stress-free, pleasurable experience.